New York has always been a world mecca for Italian restaurants. Started largely by a Neapolitan immigrant population at the turn of the century, the city’s Italian restaurant scene has broadened to include the best food from all of Italy’s gourmet regions. Yes, we all know Felidia, Circo and the best multi-starred restaurants where you pay premium prices for pasta. But what if you want to buy like an Italian, bring home the goods and cook it yourself? We talked with Michael Savarese, co-owner of the Greenwich Village Italian restaurant, Ennio & Michael’s (the 28-year old legendary cucina that even put a smile on Sinatra’s sauce-smeared face) about what makes a great Italian meal in NY.
Where do real Italians go to get the ingredients for their meals?
About 44 years ago Bleecker Street had carts selling everything that makes an Italian meal: vegetables, pasta, fish. Today it’s harder to find. “Little Italy” is strictly for tourists. You have to know where to go. There are a handful of shops, mostly near Bleecker, that still do it right.
So tell us where to go!
For bread, it’s Sullivan Street Bakery (73 Sullivan St., www.sullivanstreetbakery.com) Fresh and authentic. Try the pane Pugliese oval loaf. Joe’s Dairy (156 Sullivan Street, between Houston and Prince, 212-677-8780) is the place to go for the best fresh handmade mozzarella. Murray’s (Murray's Cheese Shop, 257 Bleecker St., 1.888.692.4339) also has a great variety of Italian cheeses. Go to Faicco’s Pork Store (260 Bleecker St., New York City, NY 10014, 212-243-1974) for sliced port, pastas, prociutto, sausages and olive oil. Ottomanelli’s (285 Bleecker St, (212) 675-4217 has a great selection of fresh meats. And for desert, Veniero’s Pasticceria and Caffe (342 E 11th St, (212) 674-7070) is the place to get pastries. The sfogliatelle, a fabulous Neopolitan pastry is my favorite.
For the lazy, kitchen-challenged or just too plain busy, you can let Michael do the shopping and the cooking. Ennio and Michael’s, 539 La Guardia Place, 212-677-8577, www.ennioandmichael.com